June 28 - Day 00 - 13/13 Astoria OR
Rode from Astoria to campground on the beach where we dipped the rear
wheels in the Pacific.
June 29 - Day 01 - 48/61 - Clatskanie OR
Rolling hills and sore muscles highlighted the day. Camped behind a motel
in town.
June 30 - Day 02 - 67/128 - Portland OR
Made strategic stops at local Dairy Queens to avoid scattered showers.
Stayed in sleazy hotel by the airport.
July 1 - Day 03 - 83/210 - The Dalles OR
Marc got the first flat, a staple in the rear wheel. Stopped for a snack
in the windsurfing capital of the US, Hood River. The Dalles is too big
for unsanctioned camping, so we checked into a hotel.
July 2 - Day 4 - 0/210 - The Dalles OR
We woke up to the startling realization that we are no longer in our 20s.
Hence we took a day off to heal tendonitis problems.
July 3 - Day 5 - 53/264 - Arlington OR
The morning saw Frank's first flat, the afternoon brought strong headwinds
from an area that almost always has Westerly winds. We camped at a marina
by the train tracks where multiple trains during the night did not wake us.
July 4 - Day 6 - 58/322 - Umatilla OR
Frank got his second flat 1/2 mile after we stopped to observe some brush
fires near the side of the road. Camped tonight at a free campground on
the Columbia River. Enjoyed a watermellon given to us by a hippie camper.
July 5 - Day 7 - 77/398 - Dayton WA
In Walla Walla we were showered with hospitality at the Bike Barn. We
received free tune-ups, water bottles, and other goodies. But most
importantly we got a much needed shower. We camped 30 miles down the road
in a municipal equipment storage barn -- 100% unsanctioned.
July 6 - Day 8 - 69/468 - Lewiston ID
Crossed Alpowa Summit, 2785 feet, and then coasted into Idaho. Spent the
night at the Riverview Inn, the same place where Marc abandoned his last
cross country effort 8 years ago.
July 7 - Day 9 - 76/544 - Kooskia ID
Followed Clearwater River upstream the entire day -- incredibly scenic.
Camped in a city park behind home plate to be woken up at 5AM by the
automatic sprinkler system.
July 8 - Day 10 - 63/607 - Jerry Johnson ID
Began our 100 mile uphill towards Lolo Summit. The scenery is even more
beautiful than the previous day -- we pass only one gas station for the
entire day. Camped on the side of the road under threatening clouds.
July 9 - Day 11 - 28/636 - Powell ID
This day has sucked more than any other day has sucked before. We broke
camp in the rain, cycled in the rain, gave up for the day at Lochsa Lodge,
in the rain. We're just 13 miles from the summit.
July 10 - Day 12 - 80/715 - Clinton MT
Crossed Lolo Summit (5325 feet) after a late start waiting for the rain to
subside. Good winds pushed us through Missoula MT to Rock Creek Lodge,
home of the renowned "Testicle Festival". Camped for free next to the
lodge.
July 11 - Day 13 - 93/808 - Helena MT
Crossed the Continental Divide at MacDonald Pass (6320 feet). After taking
the requisite photos, we sailed into Helena at 10PM, stopping at the first
motel.
July 12 - Day 14 - 49/857 - Townsend MT
Started late, spent the morning cleaning our bikes and checking out
downtown Helena. Camped on the side of the road, just before a smaller
unnamed pass.
July 13 - Day 15 - 88/945 - Harlowton MT
Crossed our third and fourth summits, both at about 5550 feet. I think
(hope) we're out of the mountains now. Four miles of the road was unpaved,
and Frank broke two spokes as a result. After truing the wheels, an
incredible tailwind propelled us at 20-25 mph for 50 miles, yehaaa.
July 14 - Day 16 - 0/945 - Harlowton MT
This is a well needed (and deserved) day of rest for our muscles and gray
matter. Thanks to the Harlowton Public Library for internet access.
July 15 - Day 17 - 106/1051 - Melstone, MT
Yep, you read it right, we did our first century today. It was incredibly
hot, and even more desolate than Idaho. Camped in a city park, checking
for sprinklers first.
July 16 - Day 18 - 88/1139 - Hathaway, MT July 17 - Day 19 - 29/1167 - Miles City, MT July 18th - Day 20 - 101/1268 - Marmarth, ND July 19th - Day 21 - 70/1338 - Hettinger, ND July 20th - Day 22 - 80/1418 - Walker, SD July 21st- Day 23 - 80/1489 - Selby, SD July 22 - Day 24 - 83/1573 - Aberdeen, SD July 23 - Day 25 - 61/1634 - Waubay, SD July 24 - Day 26 - 79/1713 - Milan, MN July 25 - Day 27 - 88/1801 - Hutchinson, MN July 26 - Day 28 - 68/1869 - Minneapolis, MN July 27 - Day 29 - 0/1869 - Minneapolis, MN July 28 - Day 30 - 45/1914 - Ellsworth, WI July 29 - Day 31 - 88/2002 - Fairchild, WI July 30 - Day 32 - 80/2082 - Steven's Point, WI July 31 - Day 33 - 96/2178 - Brillion, WI August 1 - Day 34 - 30/2208 - Ludington, MI August 2 - Day 35 - 123/2331 - Midland, MI August 3 - Day 36 - 45/2376 - Vassar, MI August 4 - Day 37 - 82/2458 - Sarnia, Ontario August 5 - Day 38 - 87/2545 - Aylmer, Ontario August 6 - Day 39 - 81/2626 - Dunville, Ontario August 7 - Day 40 - 54/2681 - Buffalo, NY August 8 - Day 41 - 65/2746 - Honeoye Falls, NY August 9 - Day 42 - 0/2746 - Honeoye Falls, NY August 10 - Day 43 - 69/2814 - Skaneateles, NY August 11 - Day 44 - 48/2862 - Morrisville, NY August 12 - Day 45 - 82/2945 - Middleburgh, NY August 13 - Day 46 - 19/2964 - Durham, NY August 14 - Day 47 - 98/3062 - Peekskill, NY August 15 - Day 48 - 58/3120 - Coney Island, NY
Weather hot, running low on water, large black birds circling overhead.
There appears to be an oasis on the horizon. Mom...I love you
Gale Force headwinds in the morning, spent afternoon in local
watering hole waiting for winds and temperature to lessen. Spent the night
in a hotel avoiding the hail and tornadoes.
Rode 81 miles between rest areas. Furthest from civilization we've ever been.
Camped in North Dakota finally, by some railroad tracks.
Battled fierce headwinds the whole day. Wasn't able to leave North
Dakota. Camped in a city park right by a baseball field.
Anyone who thinks South Dakota is flat has never bicycled through it.
We camped out on the front yard of a family of five, the town had a total
of seven (7!) residents that night.
How far do the peripheral winds from Hurricane Danny
blow anyway? Third straight day of massive headwinds, ouch. Camping in a
city park baseball field tonight.
Another day of brutal headwinds. Picture travelling 83 miles at 11 mph.
Spent the night in a motel, for our first shower in South Dakota.
Yet another day of slow going in the Dakotas. We are starting to see more
trees, but not enough to block the winds. Spent the night in a motel
avoiding severe weather.
Finally crossed the border into Minnesota and camped out in a high school
football field. Through torrential downpours in the middle of the night,
our tent kept us dry. Frank had 1 more broken spoke and 1 more flat.
Torrential rains and winds overnight, but we stayed dry and safe. Marc's
front hub has major problems, but we can hobble on to Minneapolis with
generous amounts of Tri-Flo. Camped in city park that night.
Biked faster than usual, the thought of tomorrow's day off is in both
our minds. Marc and Winnie watched the Orioles beat the Twins. Frank
stayed with our gracious host and Minneapolis resident, Debbie.
Visit to the bike store to get Marc's front wheel with new hub and Frank's
rebuilt rear wheel (hopefully, no more broken spokes). Strolled the Mall
of the Americas for entertainment.
Even though we got a 2 pm start, we crossed the Mississippi River. The
rolling hills of Wisconsin are a welcome scenery change. We are finally in
the land where radio stations begin with a W instead of a K. We camped out
at the county fairgrounds.
A truly delightful day, no humidity, temperature in 70's and gorgeous
scenery. One of Wisconsin's finest took issue with Marc's public urination.
Camped behind the truckstop, making for a very convenient breakfast the
following morning.
Another scenic day, rolling across the hills of Wisconsin. Stumbled upon
the cheese pavilion from the 1964 New York World's Fair. Took obligatory
picture with the world's largest block of cheese. More illicit camping in
the woods behind a motel.
Terrain turned flatter which helped us get close to the century mark.
Camped in a courtyard at the local high school.
Started the day in light rains and were magically transported to better
weather by the Lake Michigan Ferry. Camped at the Mason County Airport
(KLDM) under the shadow of a US Air Force Fighter Jet (Watch for Photo).
Wheeee! See what tailwinds can do to a days mileage. Flat terrain and a
15 MPH westerly wind propelled us halfway across the state. Spent the
night in a hotel in downtown Midland, our first shower since Minneapolis.
Got a late start due to rain. Lengthy and futile visit to a bike shop
to correct a weird noise coming from Marc's bike. Spent the rest of the
day riding in heavy rain on the worst road surface, thus far. A hotel
tonight will allow us to dry out.
In an effect to internationalize our experience we decided to include
Ontario in our journey. Oh, and it's shorter too. We pitched our
tent right behind the visitor's information center.
So this is Canada, eh? With a 50 degree morning and a 20 MPH northerly wind
we are glad we didn't mail back our winter gear after leaving the mountains.
While eating dinner we met the local high school principal, a cross-country
cyclist himself. He found a friend's backyard to camp in and will take us
out to breakfast in the morning.
The local principal took us out to breakfast and two hours of conversation.
Made a stop at the famous Tim Horton's Doughnuts for snacks late in the
day. Receiving more education tonight as we camp at another school.
Decent tailwinds coming off Lake Erie propelled us through the remainder
of Canada. We caught up with Frank's nephew, Dave, who is providing us
indoor accomodations tonight. While in the Chicken Wing capitol of the
word, we had dinner at Duff's, home of the best wings in town.
We purchased the final road map of the trip, it's great to be back on
familiar soil. New York welcomed us with lovely scenery and rolling hills.
Our luxurious accomodations are being provided by Mark and Leslie Rowe.
Enjoying a leisurely day off in Rochester. Visited the Curtis Air Museum
and drank lemonade on the porch.
Our gracious host not only made us breakfast but rode the first 20 miles
with us. Our trip today took us across the northern tips of all five finger
lakes. We've spotted a field behind a funeral home and are waiting for
darkness to set up camp.
We started the day with 30 miles of very steep roller coaster hills.
Luckily the hills gave way to heavy rain after lunch. Thanks to Morrisville
University's Athletic Department for a nice hot shower. Camping tonight
inside a half-finished ice-rink.
Hurriedly packed up tent at 5:45 am as workers arrived to continue
construction of the ice rink. We rode until dark in anticipation of a rainy
day tomorrow with typically pathetic mileage (in the rain). With creativity
and daylight falling short, we are camping tonight behind the high school.
Packed up the tent by 5:45 am to get a headstart on the coming rain. It
didn't work. Gave up after 19 miles of cold, hard rain. We are still in
the Catskills, drying out in a motel tonight.
After the first 20 miles, we ceremoniously crossed the Hudson River and
turned south - - the east bound portion of our trip was complete. We
followed the Hudson River until sunset and had dinner with Frank's family,
Tim and Sarka. Our final night of camping is in an industrial park in the
New York City suburbs. (Oh yeah, Frank had another flat. :-))
Flew through the first 20 miles to have Lunch with Marc's parents in
their home town of Dobbs Ferry. Then came the hardest and most
dangerous portion of the trip, navigating through the Manhattan taxis,
busses, and cars. After crossing the Brooklyn Bridge we found a
native who escorted us to Coney Island via bike paths. After cycling
the Coney Island boardwalk we dipped our front wheels in the Atlantic
Ocean just before sunset, with 3120 miles behind us.
mda@marcspage.com
- Marc D. Alexander
frank@gis.net
- Frank Leff
Last modified 15 Oct 1997